13 Rock Climbing Techniques We Teach On Climbing Courses.
I have tried to keep each description as brief as possible for simplicity. Thanks, Nathan - Outdoors Ireland
Leg Push
Once foot has purchase, push upward with that leg, using the same kind of muscles as when pushing a bike pedal. Shorter upward steps make this easier. You are pushing upward with your legs instead of pulling upward with your arms.
Pivot
When climbing there are three climb areas available to you; directly in front of you - like climbing a ladder; or without needing to shuffle your feet; simply pivot on your toes to face leftward - opening up left side climbing; or simply pivot on your toes to face rightward - opening up right side climbing. This can work in conjunction with using side pulls (see below).
Toe Jam
Carefully insert the stiffest/pointiest part of your shoe toe area into cracks/ledges. This will allow you to begin using smaller and smaller holds.
Heel Jam
Carefully insert the stiffest/pointiest part of your shoe heel area into
cracks/ledges. This will allow you to begin using smaller and smaller
holds.
Inside Edge
Use the inside edge of your shoe, usually under the ball of the foot, to slot onto the smallest of ledges or roughs. The shoe sole under the ball of the foot is nicely rigid for this purpose.
Outside Edge
Use the outside edge of your shoe, usually opposite the ball of the foot, to
slot onto the smallest of ledges or roughs.
Smear
Like you would put out your foot to stop a ball, place as much of the flat/smooth shoe sole against the smooth rock. With enough sole contact area and enough pressure, this will hold your foot against the smoothest of rock. Usually requires a good handhold. You need your leg straight and your backside sicking out to get the correct smearing angle.
Palm
A little like smearing, but for your hands. Place your palm flat against the rock at low to mid height. It can balance your position and it can serve as a push up lever.
Push Up
Instead of reaching up to a hold to pull upward on; reach down to waist height, place hands flat in push up position and simply push upward.
Mantleshelf
This is like the above push up technique, but using both hands side by side, in front of you and higher up. It is for moving onto a ledge higher above you than ideal. As you start off your mantleshelf you also bounce upward on your toes for increased power and lift.
Jug
This is a large positive hold that you simply latch your hand over and into, and it is bomber. Where a jug is only large enough for one hand to latch into, you can place your second hand over the top of your first hand.
Crimp
Tense fingers into a hook/claw shape and lock finger tips into the smallest of edges/roughs. The size of the small hold dictates how many finger tips you can hook or crimp; from one finger tip to all five finger tips.
Side Pull
When faced with vertical cracks/holds, turn hand sideward and pull sideward from these cracks/holds. It can also help to lean your upper body away from the hold you are pulling sideward on.
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11 February 2016
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