11 December 2013

Nut / Wire / Hex Placement

1. When Placing, As Well As Being Secure, Think About Making Them Easy To Remove For Your Seconder.

2. Place In Direction Of Pull / Direction Of Fall.

3. Four Sides To Each Piece Of Gear. Try All Four Sides, Plus Also Try A Smaller Or Larger Piece Of Gear.

4. Even If You Think You Have A Really Good Placement Always Try To Improve It.

5. Surface Contact: Is There Full Surface Contact On Either Side?

6. Pull Out: Does The Crack Narrow Properly, Or Can Your Placement Pull Out?

7. If The Crack Does Narrow Properly, How Solid Is The Rock In Front Of Your Placement?

8. Drop Down: Can Your Placement Drop Down The Crack & Fall Out?

9. Make Sure Your Placement Can't Wiggle Backwards & Get Stuck.

10. Generally Avoid Placing Gear Deeper Back Than You Can Reach Easily With A Nut Key.

11. Think About The Length Of Extender You Use Depending On How Easily Your Placement May Wiggle Out & How Far Off Line Your Placement Is.

12. When Removing Gear Initially Try To Gently Wiggle / Shiver Out The Gear. Then Use Nut Key Gently, If Needed, To Nudge Out The Gear.

13. Don't Whiplash The Gear As This Can Cause It To Get Stuck.

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