Wednesday

Wednesday began well; Sheila waving us off from her pick-up just after 830am. We struck out cheerfully. I released Bob the goat from his lead once we hit the first of the quiet lanes. All I could think of as I released Bob was what I would say to his owner, John Cronin - back at Carrauntoohil, if I lost his pride and joy. Anyway Bob did us all proud, prancing ahead to see what Cara was sniffing at, strolling back to see I was still following, facing up to horrible little yapping terriers with his horns.

As a mountaineering instructor, quite what made me pack my heaviest boots, designed for snow and ice climbing, I don't know; but I was certainly regretting that decisions now. While the guys munched on some barley I changed into my going-out shoes, deciding that if I ended up in a fancy pub somewhere I'd either have to wear wet muddy shoes or clean hiking boots!

The forest tracks over Fiddane were fabulous and it's a pity they didn't go on for longer. A long, gradual descent led us into the sleepy village of Killavullen - Cara finally slowing down and Bob lingering behind us.

I crossed the village bridge and took a left, following a little bridle path along the deep and fast waters of the Blackwater river. We'd done 24km, dusk was falling, my feet were tiring, the animals were lagging, and the smell of cooking was wafting across the trees of the village.

I was looking for the lights and buildings of the Nano Nagle Centre, a cross between a heritage centre and a convent. The animals had been promised a stable here for the night. The final ten minutes of my journey were a little surreal, as three tired travellers searched for the convent, assured of a friendly welcome from the sisters within. It gave me the closest, short insight I've had to how travellers from the 19th century and beyond must have felt while journeying Ireland's winding, sometimes lonely, sometimes dangerous roads looking for shelter.

The warm soda bread, cheese and jam sandwiches, washed down with scalding tea, served to me by Sister Francis and Kitty was one of the best meals I've had this week! Later that evening I dined on organic pumpkin soup and sipped homemade sloe gin.