Beginning at 600 year old Ross Castle, perched on the shores of Lough Leane, local boatmen will help you into comfortable open boats for the trip through the three Lakes of Killarney. You’ll pass a solitary overgrown rock, called O Donohoe’s Prison. This is where the original castle owners, the O Donohoe Ross’s, chained their captives, to face exposure and hunger. As you pull out into the open waters of Lough Leane the ruined abbey of Innisfallen will pass on your starboard side. Originally a leper colony, it was also one of Europe’s first universities where several of Ireland’s high kings, including Brian Boru, spent time furthering their education. On at least two occasions the Abbey was attached by Vikings, who came up the Laune River from Killorglin.
Keep a watchful eye on the dense woodland and thick rhododendrons that cover the flanks of Shehy Mountain, for a glimpse of soaring sea eagles. After the noisy excitement of the Meeting of the Waters you’ll chug through the secretive waters of the Long Range River. The shores alongside are plentiful with wild goats and red deer, though you may not see them! The final island, McCarthy’s Island, is told by some to be named after a neighbouring chieftain, who fled to the island while fatally injured during a midnight cattle raid.
A welcome cup of tea or coffee and a bowl of delicious soup await in the little coffee shop at Lord Brandon’s Cottage. The ivy encroached ruins of the Victorian hunting lodge still remain today. At Lord Brandon’s Cottage you’ve several choices to continue your journey. A horse trap and local jarvey can take you on a leisurely trip to your destination, while you listen to their stories of bandits, ambushes and legends. You can rent a bike from Killarney, transport it on the boat and continue from Lord Brandon’s Cottage by bike, or you can hike on foot, allowing you to pick as many ripe blackberries as you can eat!
The Black Valley is an impressive glacial valley, ice-carved many centuries ago by vast glaciers scraping their way towards Killarney. The foothills of Ireland’s highest mountains and imposing views of the jagged MacGillycuddy Reeks lie before you; while the steep valley sides often run with swollen streams and cascades, rushing down to feed the Lakes of Killarney.
A delicious treat on a sunny day is an ice-cream from the shop and hostel, nestled beside the church. Just beyond the church the narrow road forks. Right is the fork you want to take, which leads into the Gap of Dunloe, however if you’re on bikes a great detour is the left fork which descends into the back of the Black Valley, or Cummeenduff Glen. Here you can still sense the isolation and back-breaking work farmers must have struggled with in earlier centuries. More recently you’ll see abandoned famine cottages and overgrown potato rows on the rocky slopes. Coommeenduff Lough, inhabited by arctic char and tough mountain trout, is a beautiful lake to relax beside, enjoy a picnic lunch and dip your toes in the icy water.
Back onto the main fork, a long climb leads to the high Head of the Gap, where the incredible Gap of Dunloe stretches before you. Purple Mountain and Tomies Mountain are on your right, named after the blooming purple heather which covers their slopes. Purple and Tomies makes a great hill walk for another day. The descent down through the Gap of Dunloe is a glorious and exhilarating ride as the wind whips past your face; or the relaxed hike is just as nice, surrounded by the gentle popping of gorse seeds at the right time of year.
The black mountain lakes look inviting on some days and cold and mysterious on others, their water levels fluctuating on nearly a daily basis. Sometimes mistaken for someone calling in distress you’ll usually hear the bleating of hardy mountain goats and their kids coming from overhead cliffs. As you pass the fifth and final lake keep your eyes open for rock climbers on the popular roadside cliff, Brennan’s Leap. You’ll often hear them before you see them, with the jingle of metal equipment and their shouted climbing calls.
Kate Kearney’s Pub is a delightful sight at the end of the Gap, where tea and scones await. If you’ve bikes with you it’s about an hour’s cycle back into Killarney town, on country roads and then a busier main road. There’s a detour after Fossa village which takes you through part of Killarney National Park and Knockreer Estate, avoiding most of the main road and leading you out at St. Mary’s Cathedral.
No better way to finish this great day’s trip than with a slice of delicious Dutch apple cake and a steaming pot of coffee, or smooth Guinness, in The Courtyard at Scotts Hotel in Killarney town centre.
Bike Hire: O Sullivan Cycles – 064 31282
Boat Trip: O Donoghue Boat Trips – 087 2390723
The Courtyard, Scotts Hotel – 064 27738
OSI Map 78, Sport Corran Tuathail – 064 22681
Written by Nathan Kingerlee
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