Climbing Ropes

There Are Two Types Of Climbing Rope; Dynamic & Static.

Dynamic Rope has stretch in it, to absorb the impact of a falling climber. Dynamic rope is used for actual climbing.

Static Rope has no stretch, or very little stretch, in it. It is technically not safe for actual climbing. It is technically not safe for falling on. Static rope is used for abseiling, ascending, rigging and hauling.


Dynamic Rope Then Divides Into Three Types:
1. Dynamic Single Rope (Single Rope)
2. Dynamic Half Rope (Half Rope/Double Rope)
3. Dynamic Twin Rope (Twin Rope)


1. Dynamic Single Rope (Single Rope)
This rope is designed to be used by itself as a 'single rope', fit for climbing.
Single ropes are marked with a circled 1 at each end.

2. Dynamic Half Rope (Half Rope/Double Rope)
Two half ropes, or double ropes, are used on zig-zag/wandering climbs, especially multi pitch climbing or winter climbing. As ascending you clip one rope into all protection on your left hand side, and one rope into all protection on your right hand side. This allows the ropes to run pretty straight upward, minimising rope drag on long zig-zag/wandering climbs.
Half ropes are marked with a circled 1/2 symbol at each end.

3. Dynamic Twin Rope (Twin Rope)
Twin ropes are smaller in diameter, therefore lighter and smaller to pack. You treat them as a single rope, in terms of clipping both always together into each piece of protection.
Twin ropes are marked with a circled ∞ symbol at each end.


More Reading Here
More Reading Here

Lightning On A Mountain

It takes the sound of thunder five seconds to travel one mile. Count the seconds between the flash of lightning and the sound of thunder.

If you count ten seconds between the flash of lightning and the sound of thunder; then lightning is two miles from your location.

5 Seconds = 1 Mile
10 Seconds = 2 Miles
15 Seconds = 3 Miles
20 Seconds = 4 Miles
25 Seconds = 5 Miles
30 Seconds = 6 Miles

Once lightning is six miles or closer; thirty seconds or less; from your location - you are in danger. Especially on an exposed mountain.

We have a 30/30 Rule. When lightning is thirty seconds or closer, take shelter/take precaution for thirty minutes.


What To Do On A Mountain:
1. Move off anywhere exposed (if possible) and take the best shelter you can. A hollow/gully/re-entrant/saddle can be good. You want to move off any peak/ridge/spur.

2. Move off wet/boggy/swampy ground.

3. Sheltering in a cave is fine, once you are deep in the very back. You do not want to be in a cave entrance, a shallow cave, or sheltering under an overhanging rock.

4. Separate your party by 50 meters apart. Lightning can jump from person to person if you are too close together. You see this happen with cows, where several are killed as that one lightning strike jumps from cow to cow.

5. Get rid of anything metal, anything with batteries, and your gps/phone.

6. Insulate yourself off the ground by sitting on your backpack. Your feet should also be pulled up onto your backpack. Head tucked down, eyes closed, and importantly - hands firmly over your ears to prevent an eardrum rupturing.

7. If you have no backpack adopt the lightning position. This is crouching down, on the balls of your toes, feet close together. Head tucked down, eyes closed, and hands firmly over your ears.

8. If caught in woods move into a patch of smaller/shorter trees; not into the taller trees.

9. If you have a lightning casualty, they may well not be breathing. In this case you perform cpr until emergency help arrives.

Direct Belay & Indirect Belay

Direct Belay & Indirect Belay - Which Is Which, And Which Is Better?

A Direct Belay is when the climber is belayed directly off an anchor system. The rope runs straight from climber to anchor system.
See Photo 1. Anchor System Needs To Be Bombproof

An Indirect Belay is when the climber is belayed off the belayer's harness. The belayer is attached to an anchor system. The rope runs from climber to belayer. See Photo 2.


Benefits Of A Direct Belay:
Belayer is not in the system; not put under any pressure; and very easy to lock off and walk away - in case of incident/accident.

Benefits Of An Indirect Belay:
Your anchor system should always be bombproof, but in real life you sometimes end up in positions where that is not fully possible. By belaying off your harness belay loop; you put your body into the system. Your harness and your body absorbs some fall-load/shock-load; therefore some fall-load/shock load does not pass into the anchor system. Where you have dubious anchors - this protects your anchor system, and therefore protects you.

Mountain Skills Steep Ground Work

 Six Questions For Mountain Skills Steep Ground Work


1. Could I Do It?  (ability-wise)

2. Should I Do It?  (sensibility-wise)

3. Can I see an onward route, or am I moving into a dead end?  (one person sent scouting can be useful here)

4. If I do it, can I backtrack easily if needed?
(always be able to backtrack)

5. Likelihood Of A Slip?  (low/medium/high)

6. Consequences Of A Slip  (low/medium/high)




Three Questions For Mountain Skills Spotting


1. Am I spotting properly here; properly positioned and dug in; or am I simply putting myself and the other person at risk?

2. Can we backtrack whatever I am spotting?

3. Am I happy with the amount of time that will be lost by spotting?